Fall is a time of sharp contrasts: warm days and crisp, cool nights; clear blue skies above trees flamed scarlet and gold; and the contrast in our own sadness at summer ending, even as we joyfully plant the bulbs that link us by faith to another spring. But the most curious of autumn contrasts is this: while nature generously returns to the earth a bounty of nutritious organic matter (absolutely free), many of us still insist on raking it up and throwing it out.

I'm referring, of course, to autumn leaves.

Although it's prudent to rake leaves off the lawn to help it photosynthesize as late in the season as possible and to prevent winter turf disease, there's no need to be so tidy in the garden itself. Left in a thin layer where they've fallen, leaves and even grass clippings readily decompose into humus, making the soil porous so it can hold more air and water. Later, soil fungi, bacteria and protozoans break down the humus-rich soil into elements soluble in ground water -- and thus absorbable by plant roots. Rotting leaves are also food for earthworms, which digest them with soil and other materials to excrete castings 7 times as rich in phosphorus, 11 times as rich in potassium and 5 times richer in nitrogen -- all essential for plant growth.

As a raw material in composting, dry brown leaves provide essential carbon to balance nitrogen-rich green material such as weeds, perennial and annual clippings, grass clippings (use these in moderation, leaving most on the lawn as you mow) and kitchen peelings. With a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of approximately 50:1, the leaves that sail to the ground in autumn need to be mixed with enough nitrogenous matter to create a 25:1 ratio, again ideal for microscopic soil organisms that work in the compost pile. To achieve this, most experts recommend layering equal amounts of green material with brown, topping each layer with one inch (2.5 cm) of soil. As you empty your containers for winter, layer the spent potting soil in the compost.

Excess leaves can be raked into an out-of-the-way pile or stacked in clear garbage bags loosely tied to admit moisture; the resulting leaf mulch will be a valuable spring soil conditioner. And once the ground freezes in late fall, use leaves to add extra mulch to tender perennials and hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses already fitted with rose collars or hilled with soil for winter. (If you find your leaf piles freeze when the soil does, cover them with a tarp or a sheet of plastic that will retain some warmth and delay freezing.) Reduce long canes on roses to prevent them from breaking in winter winds, but hold off on annual pruning until spring.

Topdressing : Autumn is an excellent time to assess the quality of your soil (especially if plants do not thrive, even with careful attention) and, if necessary, to supplement it with organic amendments. Many organic soil amendments are gentle enough to be used on an annual basis, and fall is a good time to administer them. Slow-acting natural materials such as bloodmeal and composted cattle, sheep or mushroom manure provide nitrogen (N) to aid vegetative (green) growth in spring.

Bonemeal, a natural source of phosphorus (P), which promotes strong root growth and optimal flowering, can be worked into soil in autumn as well. Greensand and granite dust are both good sources of potassium (K), which helps fruiting and flowering. Slow-acting, they continue to nourish the soil for up to 10 years, therefore need not be used on an annual basis.

Preparing your Pond for Winter: A pond can be one of the loveliest features in the winter garden. And it’s especially satisfying knowing that you’ve prepared it well to survive those long cold months until spring!

Fallen leaves may be beneficial in the garden, but they're a hazard in a small pond. They decompose underwater and release methane gas, harmful to fish if it collects under a frozen pond surface. Ice also prevents the normal gas exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen, so try to ensure that some pond surface remains open in winter by using a floating electric de-icer. (Although it’s not usually recommended, I have had luck keeping my goldfish alive throughout winter by simply leaving the pond pump operating on the pond bottom.)

Do not feed goldfish once the water temperature drops to 10C (50F); their metabolism slows, making it impossible for them to digest food. Depending on where you live and the depth of the frost line, fish can generally survive with some water in a pond 3 feet (1 metre) deep. If your pond is shallow or you live in a cold part of the country, use a pond heater or bring fish indoors, storing them in an aquarium or indoor pool.

As for water lilies, unless your pond has a deep section that remains unfrozen, lift them out and cut back the leaves and stems before storing them in their pots in a cold basement room or cool garage. Water them periodically throughout winter, and lift and divide the rhizomes or tubers in spring, adding fresh soil at that time. Marginal aquatic plants such as reeds, rushes and cattails help keep the pond surface ice-free. Move them to a deep part of the pond if you wish to over-winter them.

Adapted from an article that appeared originally in Gardening Life

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